The Spring season of wine tasting events has begun and I had the good fortune of attending two really great ones this week. Monday was Taste Walla Walla: Many of you know that I am not a fan of overblown, over-extracted, over-oaked wines. Well there was a room full of them at the Portland Art Museum on Monday! I know, I know, a lot of you like big, big wines and can't get enough of them. So I'll mention some of my favorites along with some that will appeal to the hedonists in the audience . While I did find more definition overall than in previous years attending this event, many winemakers are, in my opinion, still trying for more power than balance and precision in their wines and they tend to use too much new oak.

The list is alphabetical, not in order of my preference.

2009 Taste Walla Walla

2007 Abeja Chardonnay - This was actually one of the nicer whites in the room. Ample use of oak to be sure, but with a lush mix of fruits like tangerine, pineapple, papaya and ripe banana the wood is well integrated and the wine gives the impression of minerality.

2006 Abeja Cabernet Sauvignon - Also one of my favorites. This is immediately appealing, sending a rush of black cherry and cassis fruit backed with darker notes of coffee, smoke and licorice. The flavors are dense and supple, and the wine combines grace and power, unfolding with additional layers of tar, green tea and smoky herb. Still young, this will drink well for another 10 years.

2006 Basel Cellars Claret - A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Syrah that is not overly complex but represents good value from this region. Displaying rich and supple flavors of cranberry, pomegranate and cherries that lead to a velvety finish.

2007 Buty Chardonnay Conner Lee Vineyard - A fairly big dose of oak but lots of fruit to balance, shows ripe, spiced pear and briocche notes and a long finish.

2006 Dunham Cellars Three Legged Red - Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Syrah from Dunham Estate vineyards. Deep purplish crimson, opaque. Blackberry, blueberry, and cherry aromas combine with pie spice and caramelized oak, inviting you to sip. On the tongue this is a full bodied red with chewy tannins. Good value.

2006 Dunham Cellars Trutina - 49% Cabernet Sauvignon, 48% Merlot, 3% Syrah. Mocha, boysenberry and bright Bing cherry really pull this wine along.  Rich, yet clean and effusive with multiple layers of bright stone fruits and berries. Good structure with fine, ripe tannins on the finish, well made. Also good value.

2003 Forgeron Cellars Cabernet Sauvignon - This is showing very well, and has clearly benefited from the extra bottle age. It’s beautifully integrated, with the tannins substantial but polished. The fruit mixes ripe berries and moves smoothly into flavors of earth, smoke, tobacco and graphite.

2006 Fort Walla Walla Merlot - The supple, velvety texture caresses the mouth, while the cinnamon-scented red berry, red pepper and plum flavors ride through the long, generous finish. Nicely balanced and harmonious through the finish.

2006 Fort Walla Walla Cabernet - Round and velvety. A plush mouthful of plum and currant fruit scented with sweet spice and green olive notes, lingering effortlessly against refined tannins.

2005 Russell Creek Winery Winemakers Select Syrah - Smooth and generous, with a distinct coffee note adding interest to the dark berry and spice flavors. Nice long finish.

2006 Saggi - I don't often find much to say about domestic Sangiovese, but this was one of the outstanding wines at this tasting. Dark cherry aromas and flavors combine with a hint of nutmeg in this Super Tuscan style blend. An elegant entry in the front of the mouth reveals refined tannins with focused concentration, enhanced by the wine's silky mouth feel and lengthy finish.

2006 Spring Valley Frederick Cabernet Sauvignon Blend - Another outstanding wine. An explosion of ripe summer fruits such as blackberry, raspberry, cherry, and plum, which linger in the mouth with a hint of chocolate and fresh pastry. As usual, the tannins are balanced and of exceptional quality, adding to a richly lingering, soft finish.

2006 Spring Valley Uriah - I had this after the Frederick and while it is a great wine it didn't come up to the level of the Frederick in terms of sheer power. Smooth and focused, with a cigar box character to make the ripe blackberry and currant fruit more interesting, finishing with polished tannins. Has great presence without being pushy, and the finish doesn't quit.

Va Piano Bruno's Blend IV - The blend of predominately Syrah and Malbec created a more structured profile than previous blends, leaving you with lush, smooth and complex flavors that lingers on the palate. Bruno’s Blend IV showcases cherry, raspberry and blueberry characteristics from the Syrah and chocolate, plum & spicy characteristics from the Malbec. Great value for Walla Walla.

2006 Walla Walla Vintners Cabernet Sauvignon - 76% Cabernet, 10% Cabernet Franc, 6% Merlot, 3% each of Malbec and Petit Verdot and 2% Carmenere. Deep red color, a toasted almond and bright cranberry nose, with a mid-palate of well integrated dark roasted coffee, cassis and cigar box. Its powerful finish is balanced by sweet tannins, coconut and vanilla bean.

2006 Zerba Cellars Cabernet Sauvignon - Dark ruby-colored, it exhibits an excellent cedary, spice box, cassis, and black currant perfume. This is followed by a layered wine with good concentration and balance.

Italian wines from Lemma Wine Co.

Tuesday was a completely different animal. A group of Italian producers were headed to San Francisco for the annual Tre Bicchieri Tasting that showcases all of the wines deemed by Gamberro Rosso to be the best Italian wines for the year. If you don't know, Gamberro Rosso is considered by many to be the definitive guide to Italian wines. Tre Bicchieri, or Three Glasses is the highest rating given. One of our local distributors, Lemma Wine Company, invited a dozen or so producers to their facility and they opened up all of the Tre Bicchieri wines they had in stock along with numerous other great Italian wines. Momma Mia, what a room full of great vino!

This list is the order in which the wines were presented.

2006 Elena Walch Pinot Bianco Kastelaz, Alto Adige - Very ripe, with apple, cream and a light hint of lime. Full, round and fresh, with hints of mineral and piecrust. Medium finish.

2005 Elena Walch Beyond The Clouds, Alto Adige - One of the best white wines I've had in a long time. Offers very ripe fruit aromas of peach pie, pineapple and apple. Full-bodied and very rich, with loads of fruit and a long finish. This is big, rich and satisfying. One of the best whites in Alto Adige.

2005 Colpetrone Montefalco Rosso - The 2005 Montefalco Rosso is 70% Sangiovese, 15% Sagrantino, and 15% Merlot aged in cask for 12 months. It is a deep, powerful effort redolent of menthol, wild herbs, tar, earthiness, game and dark fruit.

2004 Colpetrone Sagrantino di Montefalco - You have to like tannins to get your arms around this big wine. Colpetrone’s 2004 Sagrantino de Montefalco spent 18 months in French oak followed by 12 months in bottle. It is a beautifully layered wine loaded with the essence of blueberries, blackberries, spices and sweet toasted oak. A lighter hand with the oak might allow more varietal character to come through, but it is still a very pretty, modern-styled interpretation of this classic, structured wine from Umbria.

2004 Fattoria Zerbina Sangiovese di Romagna Pietramora Riserva - Aromas of grilled herbs and leather followed by dark fruits. The wine starts a little slow on the palate then explodes with a layered complexity. The finish is still hard at this point with plenty of tannin, but leaves a very long bittersweet fruit finish full of spiced plums and baked cherries.

2006 Argiano Rosso di Montalcino - The 2006 Rosso di Montalcino is a fleshy, sexy red loaded with ripe dark fruit, tobacco and earthiness. It possesses excellent length and fine overall balance.

2004 Argiano Brunello di Montalcino - Stand out wine. Complex aromas of blackberry, cigar box and jam follow through to a full-bodied palate, with chewy tannins and a medium finish.

2004 Tenuta di Ghizzano Nambrot - Bordeaux blend from Tuscany. Round-textured and fruity, with medium-to-full body, offering plum, berry and chocolate. Medium tannins. Soft finish. Balanced and pretty. Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Petit Verdot.

2004 Fattoria Le Pupille Maremma Toscana Saffredi - One of the best wines tasted. This is Super Tuscan! Le Pupille’s 2004 Saffredi is a remarkable wine, in fact the aromatics alone are worth the price of admission. This French oak-aged blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Alicante possesses stunning harmony as layers of plums, blackberries, toasted oak, mint and flowers emerge from its vibrant, structured frame. The tannins are remarkably polished. From start to finish, this beautifully sculpted wine is a high class effort.

2004 Castello dei Rampolla Sammarco - The 2004 Sammarco is a blend of 90% Cabernet Sauvignon, 5% Merlot and 5% Sangiovese. It exhibits a dark purplish color, along with a wonderfully fragrant nose of spices and violets. It is a rich, powerful effort packed with an array of blueberries, blackberries and grilled herbs, showing a layered personality and an imposing tannic structure that will require patience. This gorgeously pure wine should drink effortlessly to age 25.

2004 Castello dei Rampolla d'Alceo - Another great Bordeaux blend from Tuscany. The 2004 D’Alceo (85% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Petit Verdot) is even better. It is deceptively rounder and softer than the Sammarco in its expression of cassis, minerals, licorice and sweet, dark fruit. Despite the lushness of its fruit there is plenty of structure lurking underneath, and it will require significant patience before offering its finest drinking.

2007 Renato Ratti Barbera d'Alba Torriglione - Crushed black fruit, with a black licorice note. Medium- to full-bodied, compact and fruity, with a slightly decadent finish of black pepper and meat.

2006 Vietti Barbera d'Asti Tre Vigne - Exhibits loads of crushed blackberry and blueberry on the nose. Full-bodied, with light tannins and a bright finish. Concentrated and compacted.

2006 Vietti Barbera d'Alba Tre Vigne - Bright and fruity, with floral and berry aromas that follow through to a medium body, with fresh acidity and a citrus, raspberry aftertaste.

2005 Vietti Barbera dAlba Scarrone Vigna Vecchia - How many times have you had a $90 bottle of Barbera. Yeah, me either, but this was fantastic. Shows gorgeous aromas of crushed blackberry, with red licorice and toasty oak. Full and velvety, with masses of fruit. Seamless. This is the best Barbera ever from Vietti and proves that Barbera is world-class.

2004 Renato Ratti Barolo Marcenasco - Beautiful aromas of blackberry and mineral follow through to a full body, with very well-integrated tannins and chocolate, bright fruit and mineral on the finish. Long and gorgeous.

2004 Renato Ratti Barolo Marcenasco Rocche - Not as good a value as the regular Marcenasco but what a great Barolo. Very rich and powerful, displaying loads of plum and blackberry on the nose, with spicy vanilla undertones. Full-bodied, velvety and long. This juicy wine is also structured to last a long time.

1997 Vietti Barolo Villero Riserva - What a treat. Still very young as great Barolos go. Blockbuster. Ruby-garnet color with a brick-red hue. Aromas of ripe berry, almost prune, with coffee and mahogany, turning to berry and plum. Full-bodied, with firm chewy tannins and a long plum, smoke and spicy aftertaste. Giant wine.

So two days of back-to-back wine tasting. Damn what a tough life!