Spanish Wines of Distinction
Jorge Ordoñez Portfolio
I recently got a chance to taste some incredible wines from Spain. It’s unusual for me to go to a tasting and find so many good wines but out of the 36 wines poured that day I liked all but 2. All of these producers are part of the Jorge Ordoñez Portfolio and they represent some of the finest wines from various regions in Spain. Many of these producers represent 3rd or 4th generation wine-making families that have access to some very old vineyard sites.
Rioja
2007 Muga Rosé – 70% Garnacha (Grenache), 20% Viura, 10% Tempranillo. Only 12 hours on the skins imparts a pleasant salmon colored glow to the wine. Flavors of strawberry, watermelon and red currant. Dry and firmly structured, with a mineral tone to its fresh red berry flavors. Finishes focused and quite dry, with bright acids and very good length. A superb bargain in high quality rosé. $12.99
2004 Torre Muga – 75% Tempranillo, 15% Mazuelo (Carignan), 10% Graciano. #11 Wine Spectator Top 100 2007. This was the second time I got to taste this wine and I had much the same impression both times. While there is a lot going on right now the overwhelming new oak flavors dominate the palate and I have a hard time digging out the good stuff. What I did get was black currant, cocoa and cigar box with some minerality on the finish. Needs a few years to come together. $85
2006 Sierra Cantabria – 100% Tempranillo. This supple red is light and crisp, with bright, focused flavors of cherry, raspberry, vanilla and spice. Light tannins provide structure, and the finish is long and spicy. Perfect for a summer barbeque. $11.99
2003 Sierra Cantabria Reserva – 100% Tempranillo. From 30 year old vines aged 18 months in partially new French and American oak barrels. It reveals a Graves-like bouquet of smoked herbs, scorched earth, sweet kirsch liqueur, and a hint of white chocolate. This stunning, medium to full-bodied, fleshy, rich, realistically priced Rioja should drink well for 5-7 years. $28
2004 San Vicente – 100% Tempranillo. The 2004 San Vicente is 100% Tempranillo Peludo sourced from a single vineyard and aged for 20 months in new French and American oak. Deep crimson-colored, it offers an enticing bouquet of pain grille, pencil lead, black cherry, and black raspberry. This leads to an elegant Rioja with excellent balance, intense flavors, and 5-7 years of aging potential. It should be at its best between 2015 and 2025. $55
Ribera del Duero
2005 Bodegas Emilio Moro Malleolus – 100% Tinta del Pais (Tempranillo). The 2005 Malleolus is 100% Tinta del Pais which was barrel-fermented and aged for 18 months in French oak. Dark ruby-colored, it offers an expressive perfume of toasty oak, pencil lead, spice box, mineral, and black fruits. This is followed by a structured, firm wine that has excellent depth and length. It will evolve for 5-7 years and provide pleasure through 2020. Incredible wine. $62.95
2005 Urban Ribera Roble – 100% Tinta del Pais (Tempranillo). This chewy red shows ripe cherry, tobacco and dusty earth flavors over firm tannins. Not flashy, but solid, with local character. Best from 2008 through 2013. $12.99
2002 Alfa Crux - Tempranillo, Malbec and Merlot. Wow. A very flashy, modern-style wine, with layers of mocha and spice-infused toast leading the way for boysenberry, blackberry and fig fruit. Shows additional tar, mineral, graphite and even violet notes through the rich but racy finish. Drink now through 2010. $35.99
Campo de Borja
2005 Bodegas Alto Moncayo Veraton – 100% Garnacha (Grenache). Cocoa and coffee oak notes give way to dark fruit flavors of plum and blackberry in this modern red. The texture is plush, but the structure is firm and balanced. Lively. Drink now through 2010. $32
2005 Bodegas Alto Moncayo – 100% Garnacha (Grenache) from 35-92 year old vines. Rich yet lithe, this red is plush yet remains graceful and nervy, thanks to the energy of its acidity. There's plenty of cocoa and spice from oak, but it's the blackberry and cassis fruit that lingers. Drink now through 2012. $47
2007 Bodegas Borsao Borsao – 80% Grenache, 20% Tempranillo. What a great value wine that really delivers a lot for the money. A complex, dark ruby-colored wine with additional fruit and body, it possesses good underlying acidity, loads of freshness, fruit, and sweetness, and a medium to full-bodied finish. Drink it over the next several years. $8
Admittedly, some of these are expensive wines but they all represent incredible value for the quality they deliver and some are perfect for pouring at your next big backyard party. So don’t overlook the Spanish section the next time you’re in the store.



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